Theraphosidae

From WikiPets

(Redirected from Tarantula)

Tarantula care sheet Theraphosidae
Greenbottle Blue Tarantula
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Arthropoda Subphylum: Arachnomorpha Class: Arachnida Subclass: Micrura Order: Araneae Suborder: Opisthothelae Family: Theraphosidae
Subfamily
[−] Aviculariinae [+] Avicularia [+] Ephebopus [−] Eumenophorinae [+] Citharischius [+] Hysterocrates [−] Harpactirinae [+] Ceratogyrus [+] Eucratoscelus [+] Pterinochilus [−] Ornithoctoninae [+] Cyriopagopus [+] Haplopelma [+] Lampropelma [−] Poecilotheriinae [+] Poecilotheria [−] Selenocosmiinae [+] Chilobrachys [+] Psalmopoeus [−] Stromatopelminae [+] Heteroscodra [−] Theraphosinae [+] Acanthoscurria [+] Aphonopelma [+] Brachypelma [+] Chromatopelma [+] Cyclosternum [+] Grammostola [+] Lasiodora [+] Lasiodorides [+] Megaphobema [+] Nhandu [+] Theraphosa

Tarantulas are a group of hairy and often very large species of spiders belonging to the family Theraphosidae within the order Araneae, of which approximately 900 species have been identified.

This article is written with a generalisation to caring for most of, if not all species of tarantula. There are however more detailed care sheets describing each tarantula species; also listed below #List of Tarantula Care Pages.

Tarantulas were the largest of the spiders, (the world's largest spider title was taken from them in 2001 with the discovery of the Giant huntsman spider) and represent a mere fraction of the spider Order Araneae which contains a massive 40 000 species in over 100 families. Spiders date back 300 million years and have evolved to be some of the most significant predators of insects.

[edit] Choosing a Tarantula

[edit] Popular Beginner Species

Mexican Redknee Tarantula

Brachypelma smithi is most commonly known as the Mexican Redknee tarantula and is found throughout the semi-desert scrublands of Central America and Mexico. They have been listed on the Cites II endangered species list and restrictions are now in place to prevent the demise of wild specimens, as such, only captive bred specimens are to be kept as pets. Mexican Redknee's are amongst the most docile tarantulas and although they do have the ability to fire urticating hairs, they only do this very rarely when severely threatened. Because of it's temperament, this spider makes an excellent beginner's pet.

Chilean Rose Tarantula

The Chilean Rose Tarantula (Grammostola rosea) is the most commonly kept, bred and imported species in the hobby today. The Chilean Rose is typically docile, require little maintenance, and are inexpensive, all contributing to making them popular pets. They are found throughout the desert and scrubland regions of Chile, Bolivia, and Argentina.

Honduran Curly Hair Tarantula

Brachypelma albopilosum is known as the Honduran Curly Hair Tarantula. This very docile species is part of the Brachypelma genus and is widely available. Though not the best looking tarantula it is an ideal beginner species for anyone interested in learning more about tarantulas. These tarantulas are native to Central America but are most seen in Costa Rica and Honduras. This species was first described scientifically in 1980 by Valerio.

Costa Rican Zebra Tarantula

Aphonopelma seemanni is most commonly referred to as the Costa Rican Zebra Tarantula. It is a common species seen in tropical rain forests in Costa Rica, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Panama and the southern United States

Chaco Golden Knee Tarantula

The Chaco Golden Knee Tarantula (Grammostola pulchripes, formerly Grammostola aureostriata), is named after its attractive golden bands on and around its legs. These tarantulas will burrow deep when young but seem to prefer the terrestrial life when they mature. The Chaco Golden Knee makes a great display tarantula, they are very docile and perfect for any beginner. Care is very similar to the Grammostola rosea, except this species will eat more and grow much faster.

[edit] Creating a Suitable Environment

Tarantulas can be kept in any decent sized container provided with plenty of ventilation. Spiderlings can be kept in waxworm tubs and even larger clear livefood tubs when a bit larger. You will probably want a nice display tank for your larger tarantulas so a small converted aquarium will do perfect. Tarantulas do not require plants or decorations, but should have somewhere to hide. If you want to make your pet’s home more attractive you may choose to decorate the enclosure. Avoid sharp edges and rough textures. Remember that terrestrial (ground dwelling) tarantulas should have more ground space, while arboreal (tree dwelling) tarantulas need taller enclosures with something to climb.

[edit] Heating and Climate

Ensure that you research the specific needs of your tarantula carefully as their natural habitats vary from deserts to forests, and some stay on the ground whereas others prefer life in the trees. Most tarantulas will be happy in the temperature range of 70-85°F. Bear in mind that the warmer you keep your tarantula, the higher its metabolic rate will be. Therefore it will want to eat much more often and will grow much faster. At night temperatures can drop to as low as 65°F, ensure a temperature drop of at least 10°F, especially for desert tarantulas where the nights are cold.

[edit] Temperature

Temperature equipment

It is important to ensure a temperature gradient is achieved in your tarantula’s enclosure. As in nature, allowing for a temperature gradient puts the tarantula in control of the environment it spends most of its time in. Your tarantula will then choose a suitable region of the enclosure where it feels most comfortable.

The easiest way to provide the gradient is by using a heating mat or under tank heater (UTH) designed for use under reptile tanks, which should be placed under no more than 1/3 of the tank. A dim lamp or small ceramic heater may also be used but always in conjunction with a suitable thermostat. It is important to note that ceramic heaters and lamps will primarily heat the air and in turn raise humidity, whereas UTS’s will above all heat the substrate. Always verify that appropriate temperatures are being provided by using accurate thermometers in a few locations within the enclosure. Refer to more specific tarantula care sheets for thermal gradients.

[edit] Humidity

Humidity can be produced by moist substrates and a misting bottle, although the latter may be dangerous to the tarantula. Misting can cause tarantulas to lose their grip on smooth surfaces. The best way to keep the tank humid is to provide a large shallow water bowl and keep the substrate moist. Some of the tarantulas that require a high humidity are Avicularia avicularia, but for most other species humidity shouldn't be an issue.

To successfully maintain the desired humidity conditions for your tarantula you are going to need a hygrometer. A hygrometer is a device used to measure relative humidity within the enclosure.

[edit] Substrate

There really is no ideal substrate and most of the time it is really only chosen for aesthetical reasons. Make sure it is not a dusty substrate and meets the needs of the tarantula. Peat is probably the favoured substrate to use, it holds moisture well and it allows for easy burrowing. Mould should not be an issue unless the substrate is always damp, most species of tarantula will not require a constantly damp substrate unless they require very high humidity conditions.

[edit] Food and Hydration

Tarantulas eat insects, reptiles and small rodents up to their own size, some will even tackle prey larger than themselves. Suitable insects include crickets, moths, beetle larvae (meal worms and superworms), houseflies and cockroaches. Suitable rodents are mice and rats, and suitable reptiles include anoles and smaller snakes. Food items can be fed dead or alive but be weary of the harm a live rodent or reptile will do to a tarantula, dead food items will need to be wiggled to catch the tarantula’s attention.

When feeding livefoods, although it may be fascinating to watch, try not to over challenge the tarantula by giving it food items that are too large. Stick with something about half the size of the tarantula and remove uneaten food items so they do not cause harm or stress the tarantula.

Spiders usually eat larger amounts post-moult until they are full, this is called power feeding. They will refuse food pre-molt or when ready to lay an egg sac. It usually takes about 1 week to 1 month for a tarantula to accept food after a molt, all depending on the size and species. You can never overfeed a tarantula, but this doesn't mean you should overdo it by giving it 50 crickets after a molt; the tarantula will probably end up killing them all and leaving dead ones uneaten. If this is the case then they should be removed to prevent bacteria and mould growth.

Tarantulas require a source of drinking water provided by a shallow container filled with water. Some species such as Grammostola rosea will submerge themselves in the water to drink so do not think they are drowning. A Tarantula’s main source of moisture is in the food it eats, this is especially so for smaller spiderlings which will take water from water droplets when necessary. In general spiderlings up to 2 inches do not require a water bowl but instead you should mist the vivarium and they will collect droplets of water. Be careful not to overdo the misting, you do not want to increase the humidity more than it should be for the specific species you are keeping.

A great Tarantula enclosure

[edit] Handling Your Tarantula

Handling tarantulas can be dangerous and can be deadly for the tarantula. If startled they will run and even jump, possibly rupturing the abdomen when they hit the ground. Some species of tarantula are known for their docile nature, so can be safely handled with little risk to you or the tarantula. Others are more vicious and skittish, getting into a strike pose if you even go near them. You should be aware that all tarantulas and spiders are venomous and have the ability to bite. Although venom of tarantulas is not known to be specifically deadly to humans this doesn't mean that you won’t have an allergic reaction. Different people react differently to bites so it is always best to keep some distance between you and their fangs.

Grammostola pulchripes spiderlings, how many?

[edit] Tarantula Breeding

Breeding tarantulas can be extremely difficult but can also be extremely rewarding. From a successful mating, anywhere from 50 to 2000 eggs can be produced, depending upon the size and species of the female. The Brazilian Salmon Pink (Lasiodora parahybana) are of the larger species and have been known to produce some 1500-2000 eggs in one sac. Another popular species The Goliath Bird Eater (Theraphosa blondi) however, has been known to produce as little as 50 eggs despite its “goliath” size.

[edit] Preparation

Adult female Goliath Bird Eating Tarantula

If you are sure that you have an adult male and female of the same species you are in a good position to begin mating preparation. An adult female will usually moult every 14-18 months, and so mating should be done before the final 6 months of her cycle to ensure successful courtship. Upon maturing males will lose bulk in their abdomen and legs become long and spindly, this, in addition to the development of Tibial Apophysis, or mating hooks as people like to call them, and boxing gloves, are both an indication that he is ready to produce a sperm web and go on to mate. Some species do not have mating hooks, a list is defined here below see #Tibial Apophysis. He will use the mating hooks to lift the female by her fangs during mating, the boxing gloves are the bulbs where he will store his sperm after creating a sperm web.

Before he is ready to mate the male will need to produce a sperm web, normally made within a couple of weeks of his maturing moult so keep an eye out if you are expecting this to happen. He will produce a hammock shaped web in a corner of his enclosure, usually above the ground rather than inside his burrow. He will then deposit his sperm in the web by a wriggling motion underneath it. To collect the sperm he then walks over the web hammock and if you look closely at his bulbs, you will see his embolus (a small pointed hook) going into the web and taking the sperm from the web. When he is finished with the sperm web, he will usually destroy it, and the sperm is safely stored in his boxing gloves until he finds a female.

[edit] Introducing the Male and Female

Goliath Tarantulas mating

The male should always be introduced into the female's enclosure, never the other way round; he should be introduced at the opposite end to the female's position or burrow if she is hiding. This technique allows the male and female to sense each other’s presence and approach each other with caution, preventing any unwanted fights.

He will now begin to act bizarrely, twitching and dipping his abdomen. Drumming is a common mating communication technique used by tarantulas, he will hit the substrate with his front legs and pedipalps, as he approaches the female, and she may reciprocate with some drumming of her own. They are both analysing each other’s response and deciding if it’s safe to continue.

When their legs first touch, he will keep tapping and rubbing her legs until she goes into a threat-like posture. His mating hooks attempt to grab a hold of her fangs so that he can lift her up and expose her underside. He will now insert his embolus into her epigastric furrow and deposit his sperm. This process may take a long time, usually a couple of hours will be enough for mating to occur. It is important to keep an eye on them at all times, as you may be required to separate them if a fight breaks out. Do not leave them together for extended periods of time, especially if they do not seem interested with each other, they will irritate each other and the male will probably get eaten. Attempt several introductions aiming to see the insertion of his embolus into her epigastric furrow on at least two occasions, this way you can be sure she takes his sperm to fertilise her eggs.

[edit] Egg sac Production

Eggsack of a Blue Fang Tarantula

A mated female will begin to eat like she has just moulted. She will need energy she can get for egg sac production, and this means feeding her all the food she will accept. A plumping abdomen is a good sign that she is ready to lay an egg sac and this can be expected around 1-5 months after a successful mating. This duration will change depending upon species, temperature, humidity and other variants such as atmospheric oxygen concentrations.

The signs that she is ready to lay an egg sac are similar to an upcoming moult, which is excessive webbing and refusal of food. At this point you should consider taking a step back and letting nature take its course. Disturbing the female may have devastating results on all the hard work reaching this point, a stressed tarantula will destroy and eat what remains of her egg sac. E. Cyanognathus are a species that will carry the egg sac around, rotating it and massaging it allowing the eggs to grow. As long as the female is carrying the egg sac, she should not be disturbed at all, any disturbance could result in the egg sac being eaten or destroyed. If a female drops the egg sac you may wish to recover it and rear it yourself. Other species such as Pterinochilus murinus will not carry their egg sac with them and will attach it to a suitable covering such as a rock or tree stump. She will choose this location with accordance to their humidity and temperature needs. These eggs do not need massaging or rotating and can be removed from the female, or better the female removed from them to prevent her from eating them.

[edit] Spiderlings

Nymph Blue Fang Tarantulas

After 1-4 months of painstaking watching and waiting the eggs should have grown into eggs with legs, and later into nymphs. Finally the nymphs will moult for the second time and out pops a spiderling. You need to take the egg sac from the mother when you suspect that nymphs have hatched. To do this try to isolate the female from the sac using a cup.

Spiderling Blue Fang

Cannibalism is common in tarantulas but rare between nymphs, so separation is not really necessary until the nymphs have completed the moult into spiderlings. Spiderlings will tolerate each other’s company for a further 2-3 moults however there will inevitably be some cannibalism. Separate the spiderlings into appropriate containers such as small spice storage jars, pill jars or waxworm tubs.

[edit] After Care

It is possible for the female to lay a second egg sac so she must be fed well and left to rest. If a second egg sac is not produced she will probably moult and in which case lose what remains of the male’s sperm. She can now regain strength and prepare for another mating, or a happy retirement.

[edit] Caring for a spiderling

Spiderlings can live in appropriate containers such as small spice storage jars, pill jars or waxworm tubs. The substrate can be something that will retain a small amount of moisture to enable a humidity level that is slightly greater than the tarantula species requires as an adult.

They should be offered food of small insects such as crickets up to three times a week.

[edit] Sexing Tarantulas

[edit] Moulted Exuvium

When a tarantula moults it also sheds its sexual organs. The spermathecae is where females store sperm after a mating. Since a female has a spermathecae where the male does not we can tell the difference between genders.

In the abdomen of the moult there are four pairs of book lungs, these appear as a white looking film. Between the front facing pair of book lungs is the epigastric furrow, where, in females, the spermathecae is located. The spermathecae appears as a flap of skin.

[edit] Tibial Apophysis

The mating hook of Pterinochilus murinus

These are often referred to as mating "spurs" or "hooks". Males use these to lift up the female by her fangs before continuing to mate. They are located on the first set of legs before (see below).

Not of all species of tarantula possess tibial apophysis (mating "spurs" or "hooks"). Tarantula species that do not possess tibial apophysis.

[edit] Moulting

[edit] Limb Regeneration

This Avicularia avicularia's leg grew back after just 1 moult. After the second it was almost fully formed.

If your tarantula loses a leg or pedipalp and it heals cleanly it will be replaced during the next moulting process. In larger spiders the first moult will produce a replacement leg that is noticeably smaller and not as hairy, but after a successive moult it will look like the original. This is a natural process in invertebrate molting.