Corn Snake/Frequently Asked Questions
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[edit] Corn snake general questions
[edit] Can I hold my Corn Snake while it’s in pre-shed?
Yes, however you should be careful not to rub it too hard though as the skin underneath will be soft and tender.
[edit] How old do Corn Snakes live?
Corn snakes will live around 13-15 years in captivity and maybe even reach 20. The oldest recorded Corn snake lived for over 32 years!
[edit] What sex is my Corn snake? How can I sex my Corn Snake?
See the main article about Corn snakes for information on how to determine their gender.
[edit] Why are Corn snakes called "Corn snakes"?
They are well known for hunting mice in farmers corn fields.
[edit] Why does my Corn snake keep trying to bite me
Regular handling is required for keeping a Corn snake calm and docile, once your snake gets used to been handled, then they will learn not to mind it too much. If you are scared of being bitten, wear gloves to protect yourself or place you snake in a pillowcase, so that you can handle your snake through the cotton without it being able to strike.
Once your snake recognises your scent and understands that you are not a threat, then it will usually be more calm around you. You can speed up this recognition of scent by placing an item of your clothing in the vivarium for a while or by always using the same scented soap before every handling session.
[edit] If I am bitten by my Corn snake, will it hurt?
Corn snake bites do not hurt, in fact there have been cases where owners have been bitten and didn’t even notice at the time. Corn snake teeth do not do much damage to your skin, but as it may bleed it is advised that you treat the area with antiseptic to ensure the wound does not become infected.
Sometimes a Corn snake may bite and refuse to let go. It is important that you do not pull you Corn snake out of the bite as you may damage it’s teeth in doing so. If you are bitten by a persistent snake who does not want to release you, hold the head of the snake under running water. This usually encourages the snake to let go.
[edit] My Corn Snake has developed dull skin and the eyes have turned blue. Should I worry?
No, your Corn snake is just starting the shedding process, so this is nothing to worry about. Shedding normally takes between 2 to 3 weeks depending on the snake. There is little you need to do to help, as Corn snakes will shed their skin without assistance, but ensure that a large water bowl is available so your snake can soak itself if it wants to. A rock, stone or log in the vivarium also helps. After your snake has shed, remove the shed skin immediately, along with any faeces that usually accompanies it. Check that all the shed has come away from your snake, especially around the eyes as retained eye caps can be a problem.
[edit] Corn snake housing questions
[edit] How big should my Corn snakes vivarium be?
Adults will live happily in a 36x15x15cm vivarium but you may get away with a slightly smaller vivarium with regular handling to promote exercise.
Younger hatchings should be kept in smaller containers such as a shoe box so that they feel secure and do not get stressed.
[edit] What substrate should I use for my Corn Snake?
Adults: The best substrates to use have to be paper towels or newspaper. Simply because they are very easy to clean up and are cheap. Aspen is also good to use especially for older snakes but feces can be quite hard to spot if it gets covered up. Astroturf or repti-carpet is alright but needs to be cleaned regularly. Sand can cause impaction and cedar chips can cause serious infections. Other bad choices are sand, soil, corncob and pine shavings.
Hatchlings: Substrate for small corns should ideally be paper towels, newspaper or similar. Floorings such as aspen are also acceptable provided you feed them outside of their home to prevent ingestion of the substrate.
[edit] How many hides will my Corn snake need?
Place two or three hides in the vivarium with at least one at each side (warm and cold) so that the Corn Snake can choose to be warm or cold. Hides must be a bit of a squeeze for the snake to feel secure; if a hide is too spacious the snake will probably feel exposed.
[edit] Do Corn snakes like to climb? Should I place in a branch or two?
Yes, corn snakes love to climb and the rough surface will also come in handy when shedding time comes along. Remember all decor items should be thoroughly disinfected by soaking in a 1:10 bleach solution and rinsing and all branches are securely fastened.
[edit] Do Corn snakes require any special lighting such as UVB?
No. Corn snakes do not require special lighting. Simply provide with 12 hours of light, either from an outside source or a fully secured and protected in-tank light bulb. They cannot see red light and do not require UV lights. Never put enclosures in direct sunlight as this can cause the temperature to rise above normal acceptable temperatures.
[edit] How old until my Corn snake is mature?
A Corn snake can mature as young as 10 months old but for breeding a female will not have enough body mass to safely become gravid.
A male Corn snake should be two years old before being put into a breeding programme. The main reason being, sperm production seems to be lower in younger snakes leading to a higher number of unfertile eggs.
A female Corn snake however must be at least three years of age, 90cm long and have a good amount of body mass before brumination.
[edit] Can multiple Corn snakes be kept together in the same vivarium?
It is unadvisable to house multiple Corn Snakes together, but many owners do without any problems. It is all down to personal choice whether you choose to house your Corn snakes together or not.
The dangers for housing together include the chance of cannibalism (especially in younger Corn snakes), early or unexpected breeding, stress in one or all of the Corn snakes and even disease passing from one Corn snake to the other and doubling your vet bills.
If you do decide to house your corn snakes together in one vivarium it is important that both snakes are of a similar size, preferably adults. You will also need to add twice as many hides to the vivarium to ensure that one snake does not dominate the best hiding spots, which would cause stress to the other. You should feed separately and be ready for if breeding occurs. I would also advise having a spare RUB (Really Useful Box- plastic tub with air holes added to it), heat mat and thermostat handy, just in case problems arise and you need to separate your Corn snakes quickly.
[edit] Do I need a thermostat?
Yes, uncontrolled heat sources can cause many problems. These problems include stress, respiratory infections and loss of appetite if the temperatures are not correct. Corn snakes need heat to help them digest their food, so a low temperature can cause digestive problems. A really high temperature can cause burns to your snake and even death. It does not take many degrees to push the temperature up into dangerous levels, so always ensure any heat source is regulated by a thermostat.
Thermometers and heat guards for bulbs are also vital equipment within the vivarium.
[edit] Corn snake feeding questions
[edit] What can I feed my Corn snake?
It is recommended to feed Corn snakes pre killed rats, mice and day old chicks up to 1.5x the girth of the snakes body.
[edit] Can I feed my Corn snake live food?
Yes you can, however defrosts are a much better alternative.
Live rodents can do some serious damage to a snake while fighting for their lives. Most wild snakes have serious battle scars from feeding accidents. Another problem is the passing on of parasites. The freezing process kills parasites so you are at no risk of your snake getting any but with live foods there is a potential risk. Also make sure it isn't illegal in your country before you do it if you wish to do it and it doesnt come under any animal cruelty acts im not sure what they are but its worth looking
[edit] What should I feed my Corn Snake?
There are several ideal food sizes of mice and rats that can be fed to Corn Snakes. Adults will eat weaner rats and hatchlings will eat pinkie mice. Remember never feed food items bigger than 1.5X the girth of the snake and do not handle your snake 2 days after feeding.
[edit] How long after feeding should you leave your snake before handling again?
After feeding, especially when adult and swallowing large size meals, your Corn snake will want to sleep and digest the meal which can take a few days. So leave them while they are inactive or sleeping. But if you have to handle your snake shortly after feeding, take particular care in supporting the snake's body on your arms and be slow and gentle with it.
[edit] My Corn Snake is not eating, what shall I do?
In the wild snakes do not eat regularly; they are opportunist hunters in the wild. Corn snakes are no exception and you should not worry too much if your Corn snake ignors some meals.
You should only begin to worry about your Corn snake if it begins to lose weight after a prolonged fast. This is why regular weight checks are important as part of your Corn snake care routine.
To encourage your Corn snake to eat there are various techniques you can use. Braining involves making an incision into the head of the prey item to expose the brain matter and is a very good technique to entice your Corn snake to eat. You can also try a variation in diet to see if a different type of prey is more appetising. Mice, Rats and Gerbils are all safe to feed to your Corn snake, so try something different and see if that works. Another technique is to place your Corn snake in a confined, dark box with the prey item and leave them together for a while. Sometimes the closeness to the prey item and the lack of any other distractions will encourage your snake to eat.
[edit] Corn snake behavioural questions
[edit] My snake sits with its mouth open like it has something stuck in it, is there something wrong?
This is how snakes react to a respiratory infection. You should consider taking it to a vet as soon as possible. Respiratory infections can become fatal if appropriate treatment is not provided.
Respiratory infections can be treated by increasing the temperature a few degrees and remove the water bowl for a few days at a time. This should help clear away any infection however visiting a vet is recommended.
